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Archive for the ‘Biodiversity and Biophilia’ Category

The other day I was on Beacon Hill and spotted this mostly dead hemlock tree, completely swathed in Boston ivy:

Though this hemlock tree on Beacon Hill is dead, its stripped-down structure maintains usefulness, as Boston ivy covers it entirely with foliage.

Perhaps the owners were simply neglecting their courtyard garden, but I like to think that they saw the mature tree’s size as an asset to the place, and decided to use the deadwood as an armature for another plant, and to use the resulting ‘hybrid’ as a garden element.

I have seen this strategy used with other trees; an ancient, mostly dead apple through which a vigorous rose climbs and blooms, tiny dead crabapple that hosts a clematis vine, and a couple of thriving Norway maples through whose canopies wind equally thriving wisteria vines.

We see bittersweet and poison ivy taking advantage of the height and sun exposure offered by trees; why not use that principle and foster the growth of ornamental vines over dead trees, or, as in the case of the Norway maples and wisteria, let one aggressive species provide a platform for another aggressive species?

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It has been a while since I’ve written about root flares. I got some photos from my friend Carl Cathcart the other day, showcasing the excavation of a hemlock root flare. This tree is one of a hedge of 7-8′ tall hemlocks planted two years ago. Its owner had noticed that while the hedge wasn’t failing, it wasn’t exactly thriving, either. He called Carl, a Consulting Arborist, in to inspect the situation.

Carl zeroed in immediately on the base of the tree, and with a little hand excavation discovered that the hemlocks were sitting at least four inches too deep in their root balls. It has been customary for years to plant balled and burlapped trees so that the top of their root balls sits at or slightly above the finish grade around them. Cultivation practices in the growers’ nurseries have changed since that technique became the standard, though, and now it is necessary to check each root ball to make sure that root ball soil is not covering a tree’s root flare. A buried root flare — whether it is buried with root ball soil, compost, or an excess of mulch post-planting — spells trouble for a woody plant, and can be the cause of a tree’s failure to thrive. Small leaves, shorter-than-normal annual twig extension, and thin foliage can all be symptoms of a buried root flare. Root flares are not roots and are not adapted to life under the soil surface; they are part of the tree’s aboveground trunk, and typically need to be exposed to the air.

The in-field solution to this problem (should the excess soil not be removed in the nursery) is to excavate the root flare onsite during project planting. This task should be done before the tree is planted, so that the flare is planted at the correct grade; unfortunately, many contractors are not even aware of the issue, and will not have included time for root excavation in their bid. Here’s where landscape architects can make a major difference in the longevity of their project’s woody plants, and where contractors can distinguish themselves from the competition; LAs aware of the need to excavate root flares should include that requirement in their bid sheets for contractors, and contractors aware of that need (whether they are in a bid situation or not) can use this task, and the benefits it brings to the planted landscape, as a compelling selling point.

When root flare excavation doesn’t take place when the plants go in the ground, the signs of tree stress will likely show up within a year or two. At that point, hand excavation is still possible, but air-tool excavation usually will be more efficient.

When Carl identified the problem, he advised the homeowner to have air-tool excavation done. Matt Foti of Matthew R. Foti Tree and Landscape sent over a crew to carry out the work; Carl’s photos illustrate this post-planting process nicely.

The arborist has tied up the hemlock's branches for easier access in to the root ball. In this photo some of the soil has been blown away already.


A compressed air tool blows off the root mass. Just visible behind the tree is a plywood barrier that helps keep airborne soil from covering the surrounding plants.

The root flare has been uncovered; note the soil line about four inches up from the root mass. When you see side branches at, just above, or even emerging from below the soil level you can suspect a buried root flare. Carefully scraping away soil at the tree's trunk will indicate if further excavation is necessary. Now that the root flare is exposed, it is possible to see the girdling root that has formed on the trunk's left side.


The girdling root has been cut off, preventing any further vascular constriction in the root coming off the trunk and heading toward the photo's lower left corner.


With the root flare exposed and girdling roots removed, planting soil is blown or shoveled back into the excavated area at the correct grade.


The last step, before untying the branches, is to water the excavated area thoroughly, to rehydrate roots and to eliminate any air pockets in the root mass.

Project site: Private Residence, Sudbury, MA

Consulting Arborist: Carl Cathcart, A Plant Healthcare Consultant
Arborist for root flare excavation: Matthew R. Foti Landscape and Tree Service, Inc.

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More here.

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I wrote here that “a big tree does more to keep a city cool and clean than a small one does.” Adrian Benape, New York City’s parks and recreation commissioner, has the numbers.

The first number is 102. New York, he says, plants “102 different unique cultivars and species of street trees in pursuit of a more diverse urban forest.”

The second number is 65. Benape writes:

I wouldn’t trade in the street trees planted by our predecessors for anything. These venerable specimens of the urban forest give us the most benefits right now — more than 65 times those of a smaller tree, according to research by the United States Forest Service. They clean our air, shade our streets, reduce energy costs, increase property values and beautify our neighborhoods.

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ZZZZZZZZZZZZSSSSSSDDDDchew!! Excuse me; Toby’s photo of the pollinating pine in that last post just makes my nose tickle.

His points about pollinating trees make sense to me; wind-pollinated trees are different in nature from insect-pollinated trees, and have quite different effects on those allergic to fine particulates.

I have to say that Mr. Ogren’s original Op-Ed piece stood out as much for its hypo-allergenic focus as for its assertions about what trees do get planted in cities. To set the record straight, a number of the plants he mentioned (both favorably and unfavorably) — box elder, mulberry, silver maple, willow, cottonwood, and even red maple — are considered either outright weed trees or are simply weak-wooded and would never pass muster for planting in dense urban areas. More often than not, most of these trees volunteer in the city, and are able to thrive because they are wind-pollinated, produce a lot of seed, and are able to grow quickly and under conditions that would stymie less tenacious trees.

Landscape architects and arborists working in cities tend to avoid these plants for street tree plantings; in fact, I would think of using some of them — if any — only on larger sites where space was not an issue, where I wanted fast and effective growth, and where there was no chance that they would invade other areas. Municipal lists of acceptable street trees are actually, quite limited, as the piece points out, and mainly include slower-growing or more structurally sound trees than some of these worst culprits — the criteria for street tree selection in a city have to take into account those trees that have relatively reliable structure and habit, can deal with difficult soil, exposure, and moisture conditions, and that don’t create walking hazards with heavy fruit set.

What struck me most, after reading Mr. Ogren’s piece, was the realization of how much vegetative biomass there is in cities, despite our best efforts to pave wherever possible. The ocean of pollen we swim in every spring and summer comes from volunteer as well as planted trees, shrubs, grasses, and forbs, and reducing the pollen count in any area feels a little bit like setting aside a piece of the ocean to make a freshwater pond…

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On Saturday the Times published two letters that responded to its recent op-ed piece by Thomas Lee Ogren on trees, pollen, and allergies.

One reader, Christine Lehrer, wrote:

Honeybees collect pollen from the very trees that are causing all the sneezing and runny noses. By taking a spoonful of honey daily, approaching and during allergy season, you inoculate yourself against the offending pollen and greatly reduce your allergic reaction.

Another, Joan Edwards, wrote:

Plants with showy colorful flowers like magnolia, black cherry, redbud and flowering dogwood … make pollen that is designed to affix to their pollinators. Their pollen is sticky, produced in small quantities, and large so it is less likely to be blown in the wind, where it can be inhaled by an unsuspecting passer-by.

Both of these cannot be true. My money is with the Edwards: Bee-pollinated trees don’t bother to release the kind of pollen that makes you sneeze, and wind-pollinated plants don’t bother to attract bees. (There may be belt-and-suspenders plants out there that can be pollinated by wind but would like also to be pollinated by bees, but this non-botanist isn’t aware of them. Readers?)

So by planting only insect-pollinated trees and the female cultivars of wind-pollinated trees, we can reduce pollen counts. Good information, as far as it goes, but neither Ogren nor Edwards successfully addresses the other qualities that urban trees require. Ogren writes:

In New York City, street trees are selected only for their hardiness in winter; their resistance to disease, insects and drought; their ability to withstand smog; and their size, shape and color.

Even when selecting ”only” for those criteria, the trees that pass muster make up a pretty short list.  Adding a new criterion will only make the list shorter. And in fact, very few of the trees that Ogren and Edwards recommend would perform well as street trees.

It turns out New York’s criteria make sense.  Size, for example, matters. A big tree does more to keep a city cool and clean than a small one does.  It casts more shade, transpires more water, absorbs more noise, and (if its leaves are fuzzy) traps more particulates. Plus, a sidewalk tree’s lowest branches have to be higher than a tall pedestrian’s head, so the tree has to be large enough that it can be limbed up without looking like a broken umbrella.

Trouble is, most big trees are wind-pollinated. (Evolutionary biologists, pitch in here: Is it because more insects fly at dogwood-height than at oak-height, or are there some other phenomena at work? What is it that the tall insect-pollinated trees — tulip poplar, cucumber magnolia, caltalpa, horse chestnut — have in common?) Whatever the benefits of planting only the kinds of trees that don’t release a lot of pollen, our urban forests would be poorer for it, and our cities would be hotter, to the detriment of trees and people alike.

Instead of banning wind-pollinated trees altogether, what about mapping prevailing spring winds and vulnerable populations (schools, hospitals?), and designating zones in each city where only female and bee-pollinated trees would be planted? If we can put some allergists and public health specialists in the same room as some planners and urban foresters, we might get somewhere on this.

In the meantime, stir a little local honey in your tea. Probably won’t help. Can’t hurt.

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Cattleya in bloom; Ripsalis in background


Another grey and cold day in a long, cold month. Going to my desk and working is a good antidote to the gloominess, especially when the Cattleya next to my drawing board blooms (as it did last fall), or the Ripsalis in the window each January reliably turns from a mop of green string into a mop of green string and yellow confetti. Each plant has its own delicate flower fragrance, which rests quietly in the air until someone walks through the room and stirs up faint currents of deliciousness. It’s a good reminder to use scented plants in the landscape.

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British Soldier Lichen, Cladonia cristatella

British Soldier Lichen, Cladonia cristatella

Gratuitous lichen photo.  Not replicable by man, though we can help create the conditions for it to happen . . .

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Speaking of systems:

Replicable by man?

Replicable by man?

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Here are two good and different ways to think about having a lawn that you can love all summer long.

One way is to use a seed mix that promises lush green summer growth without requiring (after an initial establishment period) watering, fertiziler, or frequent mowing.  Prairie Nursery in Wisconsin has long offered a “No-Mow Lawn Mix” (which would better be titled “low-mow,” only you mow it high, not low), and now Pearls Premium offers “Ultra Low Maintenance” lawn seed, a mix of deep-rooted grasses (mostly fescues) that can weather drought and which its developer, Jackson Madnick, calls ”the only ultra low maintenance grass seed blended for our climate.” Today’s Globe article, quoting Sharon water conservation specialist Paul Lauenstein, identifies “rich organic dirt.” as the key to success.*

In much of the region, of course, our dirt is not rich and organic.  In many places it is shallow and rocky, and in large areas it is mostly sand.  Long-time residents of coastal areas have developed different expectations for their lawns.  On Cape Cod, most lawns are thin and fine-textured, soft** but not moist under bare feet, brownish green or greenish brown for most of the summer, and interspersed with drifts of small flowering plants. The Orleans Pond Coalition, in its efforts to reduce fertilizer runoff into Cape Cod wetlands, promotes the “traditional Cape yard” in their smart and useful publication Recovery from Lawn Obsession.

Cape Cod Lawn

Cape Cod Lawn

Too many Cape Cod lawns are becoming “Chatham Lawns.”  Maybe more New England lawns should become Cape Cod lawns.

* In my experience, the other key is timing.  As gardeners know, fast-growing plants suppress weeds better than slow-growing plants.  So with a slow-growing lawn mix, it’s important to time the planting to give your lawn a head start on weeds.  Prairie Nursery’s catalog, online at their web site, has some good advice on this.

** I just did a test walk on the Bristol County equivalent of a Cape Cod lawn and I feel compelled to add here the words”scratchy” and “crunchy,” especially after a mowing.

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